Hi, I'm Marta — and the afternoon Istanbul completely won me over
I spend my working weeks coordinating corporate training in Madrid, but twice a year I escape to Istanbul with my partner or close friends. This is the story of the sunny autumn afternoon that made me start writing everything down.
Hi, I'm Marta. Back home in Madrid, my days revolve around coordinating corporate training programmes, juggling calendars, and dealing with office logistics. It is rewarding work, but it runs on strict schedules and deadlines. Whenever a bank holiday weekend opens up on the Spanish calendar, or when late September arrives, my instinct is always the same: I pack a carry-on and catch a flight to Istanbul, usually with my partner or a couple of close friends.
I was drawn here by how naturally the rhythm of this city fits the way I love to live. I thrive on late dinners, sitting outdoors with friends long after nine, and strolling through lively neighborhoods when the evening breeze finally sets in. For years, I treated my visits as simple getaways, keeping mental notes of quiet courtyards, smart ferry crossings, and corner tables away from the crowds. But one particular afternoon on the Historic Peninsula changed that, and it became the reason I finally pulled out a notebook and started writing down my experiences.
Losing track of time in the courtyards of Topkapı
It was late September, during a long weekend with my partner. We had spent the morning walking through the Historic Peninsula, determined to take our time rather than rushing through monuments. We stepped through the outer gates of Topkapı Palace, leaving the bustle of the tramway behind for the wide gravel paths and cypress trees of the outer courtyards.
I had visited the palace once before on a rushed group trip, but this time I wanted to give each corner its proper space. We headed straight into the Harem, where the atmosphere shifted completely. Walking through the narrow tiled corridors felt intimate and hushed. The intricate blue and turquoise Iznik tiles lining the chambers caught the morning light through small stained-glass windows, and the cooler stone interiors gave us a welcome break from the sun outside. We lingered in the imperial halls, admiring the domed ceilings and quiet courtyards where Ottoman dynastic life played out away from public eyes.
Afterwards, we wandered through the palace kitchens, admiring the massive displays of historic porcelain, and stopped by the clock collection before heading toward the outer pavilions. My favourite moment arrived when we reached the marble terraces of the fourth courtyard.
Standing by the gilded pavilion, looking out over the meeting point of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus, the entire city opened up before us. Ferries crisscrossed the deep blue water, seagulls wheeled overhead, and the distant hills of the Asian shore basked in afternoon warmth. We sat on a stone bench for nearly an hour, simply watching the maritime traffic pass by without any urge to hurry along.
Tickets and visiting hoursTopkapi Palace
Unwinding along Soğuk Çeşme Street
By mid-afternoon, our legs were tired from hours of walking stone corridors and courtyards, and our appetites were calling. After hours of palace history, I needed somewhere relaxed where we could sit down, recount what we had seen, and recharge before our evening plans.
We walked out of the palace gates and turned down Soğuk Çeşme Street, a picturesque cobbled lane nestled directly against the high stone walls of Topkapı Palace. Just steps from Hagia Sophia, we found Chimney Bistro. Stepping inside felt like an immediate breath of fresh air.
The bistro has an inviting brick bar and an open roof that lets in the afternoon breeze while keeping the street noise at bay. We settled into a quiet table and immediately felt comfortable. The atmosphere was unpretentious and warm—the kind of spot where you can comfortably linger without feeling rushed by staff.
We ordered a Chimney Combo, which made everything effortless after a long walking day. We shared freshly baked beef pide, crisp and hot from the oven, alongside cold drinks, followed by a chilled glass of wine. The casual setting and great food were exactly what we needed to unwind.
Book a table and the meal comboChimney Bistro, Sultanahmet
As we sat under the open roof, listening to the soft music and the faint murmur of the old city outside, I reached into my bag, pulled out a small journal, and started jotting down how we had paced the day: the quiet hours in the Harem, the sea view from the palace terrace, and this tucked-away table right beside the ancient walls. That was the moment I knew I wanted to keep writing about this city—not as a formal guide, but as a collection of real, unhurried days spent exploring a place that feels more like home with every single trip.